Jaffelin Rully 2022

Just what a good year 2022 was for white Burgundy was underscored by the fact that no fewer than three emerged in our Best In Show selection – with, satisfyingly, a contender each from the Côte d’Or, the Côte Chalonnaise and the Mâconnais. Perhaps, too, it illustrates how attractively this ripe yet fresh vintage tastes in early youth. Rully lies at the northern end of the Côte Chalonnaise and was once such a cool site that it became a centre for sparkling-wine production. Today, the commune’s own grapes are overwhelmingly used to make graceful, sparely contoured, food-friendly still whites like this one. Pale green-gold in colour, its aromatics evoke fresh-cut hay and quince fruits lent richness by subtle barrel-fermentation. It’s sculpted and pure in the mouth, with an understated lime-zest pungency, classical Burgundian vinosity, and an apple-fresh finish.