Las Lamas 2023 en Primeur

The unbottled sample of the 2023 Las Lamas is stunning. It comes from the 1.6 hectares they have in a single vineyard since they bought a last plot in 2017. It fermented with some full clusters in oak vats and was aging in foudre and large barrels when I tasted it. It has the austerity of the 2023s, which is remarkable for a warm year, and the balance that Las Lamas can have in dry years. But 2023 was not as extreme as 2022 was, and the competence from the 2023 Moncerbal was tough. It's more austere than the 2022 Las Lamas, consistent with the rest of the 2023s.

The Las Lamas vineyard sits on a steep slope below the winery and has a greater amount of clay in the slate soil. I usually prefer Las Lamas to Moncerbal, but in this more difficult vintage, Moncerbal shows more charm. Tasted en primeur, it's powerful, with punchy freshness and a savoury, almost saline note, with fine textured tannins. It needs time, for sure.