El Portillo 2021

This has evocative aromas of dried roses with some tangerine peel and a stony element. The palate is medium-bodied but substantial, juicy with soft tannins and a good backbone of acidity. Aged in foudres. This comes from a single vineyard planted in 1940 at 850 meters in the village of Gumiel de Mercado in Ribera. Aromatically this would never take you to Ribera. Maybe because it’s an old field blend of tempranillo, garnacha and valenciano. This is a unique expression of how old vineyards were planted in Ribera. It’s also delicious. Drink now or hold.

The single-vineyard red 2021 El Portillo comes from a 1.46-hectare plot at 829 meters above sea level planted with a field blend of Tinto Fino, Garnacha and Valenciano (Bobal), quite normal in the old times, as this vineyard was planted in 1936. The wine has more of everything—complexity, depth and also elegance and balance—with contained ripeness and 14% alcohol, very good freshness and natural acidity and comes through as fine-boned and elegant. It's floral, perfumed and insinuating, with a lively medium-bodied palate, vibrant flavors and a finish with echoes of acid berries. It matured in a 3,000-liter oak vat for 11 months. 3,000 bottles were filled in September 2022. It's approachable now but should also age.