Barale Fratelli Barolo Bussia Riserva 2014

The 2014 Barolo Riserva Bussia Sergio Barale is the weaker link in this stellar group from Barale Fratelli, but this has to do mostly with the 2014 vintage, which feels less vibrant as I taste it now. Dried cherry and cassis with earthy tones appear, along with iron ore, licorice and crushed flowers. It's great now, but the jury is out on how much actual improvement age will be able to bring to this bottle. It is graceful and fragile, keeping with the house style.

Powerful ruby red with a slight purple tinge. Not quite clearly defined nose with lots of earthy tones of undergrowth and mushrooms, light tar, then liquorice in the echo. Juicy and gripping on the palate with nice savouriness and firm drive, expands nicely with tightly woven tannins, and finishes fresh.

This fragrant red opens with aromas of rose petal, new leather, wild berry and menthol. The racy ethereal palate offers wild strawberry, sour cherry, star anise and thyme framed in polished tannins and vibrant acidity. Drink through 2024. Kerin O’Keefe